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http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/04/international/americas/04SURF.html

The Peruvians Surrender to Surfing, Body and Soul
By JUAN FORERO

LIMA, Peru — Hawaii may have the north coast of Oahu. California may have Malibu. But Peru has Punta Hermosa, south of Lima, the longest waves in the world at Chicama and, for 62 years, the fabled Waikiki Club.

"The waves are constant," said Rocío Larrañaga, who teaches surfing at the Waikiki. "In other countries, the waves come in seasons. Here is all the time, left and right. Some are six, seven meters high, some of the largest in the world."

The Waikiki is a club like no other — a white-glove establishment whose members come from some of Peru's most prominent and powerful families yet close enough to the gritty downtown of this coastal capital that gentlemen surfers, like Francisco Aramburu, a successful Peruvian entrepreneur, hit the beach on their lunch breaks.

"This is the Latin American lunch break — three hours," Mr. Aramburu, 58, a surfer since age 13, said with a laugh. "I try to surf every day, every day that is worthwhile in terms of waves, that is."

After soccer, of course, surfing could almost be considered the national sport. Peru has a 1,400-mile Pacific coastline featuring more than 70 well-known surf spots, some with roaring swells that regularly reach 23 feet. It has magazines like Extreme and Tablista (the word is Spanish for surfer) and even a television program on surfing called "Free Ride."

Long the pastime of the rich, the sport has steadily spread in popularity to the greater middle class, with an estimated 30,000 enthusiasts clambering atop boards. Rodolfo Klima, who makes custom boards with his company, Klimax, says he is producing five times as many boards as he did just five years ago.

Hard-core surfers the world over know all about Felipe Pomar, a Peruvian and the first international champion surfer from the 1960's. Today, the sport's glamour girl is Sofía Mulanovich, who is among the top women in world surfing and whose grandfather and father were members of the Waikiki.

Some families have been surfing for three generations....

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http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/05/arts/design/05GLUE.html

Unveiling the Modern's Works From South of the Border
By GRACE GLUECK

The first work by a Latin American artist that I remember seeing in New York was Wifredo Lam's huge and (to me, then) menacing canvas "The Jungle" (1943). For varying periods it hung in the entrance hall of the Museum of Modern Art, its powerful Surrealist presence a sort of logo for the museum as a stronghold of avant-garde culture.

I didn't fathom then that this Picassoid painting, with its verticals of sugar canes morphing into human shapes, attended by African masks and voodoo symbols, was a sophisticated vision of the artist's Afro-Cuban heritage and at the same time an anticolonialist statement about its exploitation by outside interests.

Nor was it clear that the painting was part of an enormously diverse Latin American and Caribbean collection that the Modern had been episodically assembling since the 1930's. Partly because the works were so dispersed throughout the museum's departments — paintings, sculpture, prints, illustrated books and so forth — and partly, perhaps, because of an audience not sufficiently tuned in to art-making south of the border, they were never identified as a cultural entity. The "collection" remained a sort of mystery.

Now with the growing vitality of a Latino presence in the United States, the increasing importance of El Museo del Barrio as a stronghold of Hispanic art and culture and the temporary dispersal of the Modern's collections occasioned by its new building project, the time of revelation seems to have come....

Posted by anne at March 5, 2004 04:04 PM

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/08/international/americas/08VENE.html

Pirate Radio as Public Radio, in the President's Corner
By JUAN FORERO

CARACAS, Venezuela — The sound room of Radio Perola, a small community station on the poor edge of this city, is papered with posters celebrating Latin American revolutionaries like Fidel Castro and offering a stern warning to the behemoth to the north: "Death to the Yankee Invader."

The setting seems fitting for José Ovalles's politically charged Saturday radio program. Gripping a microphone and waving reports from a government news agency, the white-haired retired computer teacher charges that a far-flung opposition movement arrayed against President Hugo Chávez is part of an American-led conspiracy. He ridicules the president's foes as criminals with scant backing.

He urges listeners to defend what Mr. Chávez calls his Bolivarian Revolution, which is under international pressure to allow a recall vote on the president's tumultuous five-year rule. "We have to fight for a free country," he said recently, "one with no international interference."

The message, beamed from a 13-kilowatt station in what was once the storeroom of a housing project, reaches at most a few hundred homes. But Radio Perola is part of a mushrooming chain of small government-supported radio and television stations that are central to Mr. Chávez's efforts to counter the four big private television networks, which paint him as an unstable dictator.

With Venezuela on edge, stations like Radio Perola are poised to play an even bigger role in this oil-rich nation's political battle.

Instead of shutting down his news media tormenters, Mr. Chávez's tactic appears to be to ignore them as much as possible while relying on former ham radio operators and low-budget television stations to get the government's message across.

Although the stations say they are independent and autonomous, Mr. Chávez has announced that $2.6 million would be funneled to them this year. They also will receive technical assistance and advertising from state-owned companies.

"This year, we will not only legalize and enable approximately 200 more communitarian radios and televisions with equipment, but we will also promote them," the communication and information minister, Jesse Chacón, said in an interview posted on a pro-Chávez Web site....

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